El Golfo de Santa Clara, Rio de Colorado, Sonora, Mexico
El Golfo de Santa Clara, Rio de Colorado, Sonora, MexicoThis is my home. If I am lucky, I shall spend the remainder of
my life here and be buried with a smile on my face.
This started out as part of another page and got too large.
Construction on the new highway El Golfo is complete. .But the
entry is 20 km from the San Luis Entry because this segment is still
under construction.
You can think of this highway as 3 separate segments in the shape of
the letter 'Y' and pointing more or less south. The final segment
is freshly paved and is a good highway. The issue is the northern
two legs. The old highway is the western leg of the 'Y'. and
starts at the southwest corner of San Luis. The new highway, when
completed will start in the center of San Luis or the eastern end of
San Luis.
There are many reasons that you want to avoid the new highway.
Note that the government is aware that people are not using the
highway. As a result, there are brand new pretty green signs all
over San Luis directing you to the highway. These are
conspicuously posted at turns where you would normally take the old
highway.
It is absolutely critical that you do not follow the instructions given to you by the CRA reservations telephone! If you follow their instructions, you will end up in East Afghanistan or Hermosillo depending upon when you stop and ask for help -- and the help will not speak English!
El Golfo is two hours south of the border. The border is 1
hour south of Yuma Lakes - CRA. You figure it out -- 3 hours
total for
beginners.
You have your choice. Follow my directions precisely using the
old highway or follow the pretty new signs using the new highway.
It is your choice but you cannot do both.
Do not buy your Mexico insurance from R. L.
Jones. They charge at least double what other agencies
charge -- for the identical policy!
The first time to El Golfo I went to R. L. Jones. Jones said I
could
change my day out (their prices are so high, they recommend that you
only pay for two days: in and out). I faxed them the change and
they refused to cover it. Fool me twice, not going to happen.
If you want Mexican Insurance
call: 1.800.909.4457.
These people are knowledgeable and helpful. They will tell you
what they can and cannot do. They will tell you what you can and
cannot do.
Follow the directions to El Golfo. 5 km before El Golfo is the
sign for the new super highway to Puerto Peñasco. Travel time is
75 to 90 minutes in addition to the time to El Golfo. Remember
that there are no facilities for anything south of the border all the
way to Puerto Peñasco other than in El Golfo.
The super highway is overrated. Like almost all highways in
Mexico it is two lanes wide and not well marked. Since it is new,
they have tried. Coming south before this turn off is the curve
down the cliff side to beach level. This is a dangerous curve but better than before.
I have never even heard of anyone having problems on the OLD highway
to El Golfo. I stop and help people who may be stranded. I
have been helped when stranded. I give rides to
hitchhikers. I hitchhike. There are 3 problems on the old
highway: Cows sleeping on the highway at night; slow farm equipment,
and curves.
The NEW highway is a different matter. It has been open since
fall of 2009 and I have already heard of people being robbed at
gunpoint. There are no police patrols anywhere on the new highway
either to El Golfo nor from El Golfo to Puerto Peñasco. There may
be a military checkpoint on the highway to Puerto Peñasco.
The cities of San Luis on either side of the border straddle the
border crossing. Pedestrians have the right of way and they take it.
The US Border Patrol now stops you going south. It is a mess. If you
have taken Avenue B out of Yuma, you now turn right (west) at the state
penitentiary. You will encounter new highway intersections here.
South of here they will build a new border crossing taking the pressure
off of the crossing downtown. Similar to the Mexicali Central and East Gates.
Highway B and the new gates will take you away from the small towns south of Yuma and away
from the San Luis's. But this is at least a year away -- 2011 at
best. The new Puerto Peñasco toll road is designed for this entry.
For now you either enter at San Luis (Downtown), Algodones, or Mexicali.
There is a quarter-circle highway from the anticipated new gate to
the new Puerto Peñasco toll road. If you continue on the
quarter-circle
past the toll entry you will enter the old highway as the Islitas
exit. There is major construction on entry to this
quarter-circle. Shortly the intersection with the toll road will
continue the toll road (without more toll) north into central San Luis.
It is 2 lanes of old highway. North of El Doctor, it is the primary
access road
for commercial farm equipment. There are many tractors between
San Luis and the 57 turnoff. There never were good signs
directing you to El Golfo but all that did exist have been
removed. This document refers only to the old highway and attempts to ignore the new highway except where necessary.
The new Puerto Peñasco Super Highway Toll Road. 96 pesos --
each way. You pay $8.00 for 60 km of open desert new highway and
save 15 km at the expense of driving through the city of San
Luis. As soon as you cross the border at San Luis you will see
large green signs telling you how to take the new toll road to El Golfo
and Puerto Peñasco. My directions avoid the new highway.
The directions will get you out of town and into the highway (RC
3). The following at landmarks to help you on your way. The
KM markers along the highway are confusing since some use the old
numbers and some the new.
Grullita
An alternate road into San Luis. Use it if you know your way around otherwise it is just a bus stop.
Islitas
The current turnoff between the old and new highways and the entry
to the eastbound bypass to the cities of San Luis. Otherwise it
is just another bus stop.
Nuevo Leon
A Pemex and a bus stop. The ONLY Pemex on the old highway south of San Luis. The truck at the Pemex has great tacos.
57 -- Luis B. Sanchez
The nearest town with banks, casas de cambio (money exchange),
Pemex, and large grocery to El Golfo. This is the turnoff to
Mexicali or San Felipe.
Community School
Riito
Small town, rail crossing, and police station. Famous for
police taking money and writing random tickets. Stop at the
flashing light and the stop signs and drive slowly though town.
Poblados: Mesa Rico
Toll Road Entry/Exit Intersection
If you take the toll road into San Luis it will cost you 98 pesos, a mess of construction, 15 km savings into town, and the 10 km of Mexican traffic and narrow streets.
El Doctor
This is the military checkpoint for people going north. Going
south you just stop at the sign and proceed. Occasionally the soldiers also check traffic going south.
If
you speak Spanish, let them know because their English is impossible to
understand.
I have had things stolen by the soldiers: expensive perfume, cell
phone, camera, $100. Now I only permit one soldier at a time
inside and I watch his hands. Anything valuable I place on the
dash where it is always in site. Nothing valuable in the glove
box. Last week the charger for my cell phone disappeared at El Doctor -- and I was watching but not close enough.
Soldiers rotate every week or two and may take offense when you tell them
that other soldiers have robbed you or if you criticize their English.
New Highway Pavement
From El Doctor to El Golfo. No Toll.
Turnoff to Puerto Peñasco
2 km North of El Golfo is the turn to Puerto Peñasco. Buy your gas here -- the cheapest price in north Mexico.
El Golfo
You have arrived.
El Golfo is 115 kilometers (70 miles) south of Yuma, Arizona at the
south end of a single highway that starts in San Luis. El Golfo is a
pleasant fishing village converting rapidly to a tourist
village. You can get here from Calexico, Algodones, or San
Luis. The roads are in good repair for Mexico. The speed
limit is 90 km/hour (50 mph).. Slower in villages and farm
buildings. Allow two to three hours from the border-- any border.
El Golfo is at the south end of Sonora RC (Rio Colorado) highway 3
-- it ends at the CRA park. All of these directions get you to
highway 3. Other than the jog at Riito, there are no turns --
when in doubt, go straight south.
To bypass downtown Yuma from I-8
I-8 From the East: Exit at the Yuma
Road 3E (South), then County 14 (West), and finally US 95 (South).
This will save you driving through downtown Yuma. San Luis has high sales tax and a Wal-Mart.
I-8 From the West: Exit at 4th street. Turn west at the first light. Turn south on Avenue B until you get to Mexico. Stop at a Wal-mart for supplies.
RV: South on the road into Mexico. Turn right
at the second corner. Watch the dip if you have an RV. Left at the stop
sign once past the city
proper just before the asphalt ends. Follow this road south over
the bridge. Do not angle right at the turnoff to Mexicali.
Car: South on the road
into Mexico. Turn left at the second street. Go up the hill to
the stop sign. Turn right until it ends. Turn left (South)
over the bridge. The corners on this road are difficult or impossible in an RV.
Both: About 30 km south after several topes and
a stop sign -- road ends at Mexico Highway 2. Turn left (east)
and
proceed through the toll booth. At your very first chance
(1/4 mile and unmarked),
turn right and follow the directions from the turn from Highway 2 above.
Do not follow the signs to Mexicali to the West.
If you are coming to El Golfo from California, Mexicali will save you 50 miles compared to coming through San Luis. Mexicali is congested -- do not do this at rush hour.
Enter Mexico from downtown Calexico and note the mileage on your odometer at the inspection station.
At the fork immediately in front of you, follow the main road to the right. The train tracks remain on your left. Do not cross the tracks.
This is BC highway 5 to San Felipe -- follow the San Felipe signs out of town to the south. Follow a couple of forks to the right: No turns.
At exactly 30 miles south of the border crossing, there is a sign to the left for Algodones. You cannot cross the road here to turn left. 100 meters past this is a U-turn (Returno). Take the Returno then turn right (east). This road goes through several villages and you end up in 57 (Luis B. Sanchez) at a stop sign with the train tracks high on your left and a boulevard to the right.
By this point you have passed several small towns with topes that will break your springs if you drive too fast. You will also have passed some serious curves -- careful!
At the central 57 stop sign (boulevard on your right), turn left over the tracks, stop at many stop signs and follow the fork right (east) out of town. About 2 miles east of 57 the road ends. This is RC highway 3. Turn right and go to El Golfo.
Just as you turn to head east there is a Welton grocery store. Good
produce and good everything for northern Mexico. This is the last good
grocery store on your road south. Buy it here or pay El Golfo
prices. Pemex/Gas is cheaper in El Golfo.
Be careful here. General directions are better than
specific. After the border turn left/east at the first stop sign
and wrap south.. When you get to highway 2 follow the signs
to San Luis. Do not follow the signs to Algodones: you might get
there, you might not.
When you see the exit for Guadeloupe Victoria, turn south.
You
will drive a long ways and end up in a fairly long stretch of
town. This is Guadeloupe Victoria (or 43 if you are up to it).
Just past town there is a major intersection. Take the road
left/east town Luis B. Sanchez (57). From here follow the above
instructions to El Golfo.
If you miss the exit to Guadeloupe Victoria, no problem. Just
continue through the toll booth then immediately turn right as if you
just left San Luis.
In general, gas is cheaper in Mexico. Magna/Green is
regular. Red is premium. If you are buying gas in the USA,
buy it in San Luis before you cross the border. The Circle K is
convenient, takes credit cards, and if not the cheapest, within a few
cents -- and frequently cheaper than the Sam's Club in Yuma. If you
buy
gas in Mexico, the El Golfo station is the cheapest any where in
northern Mexico. California? You cannot be
serious. 50 cents
difference between El Centro and Yuma.
Pemex is the ONLY legal gasoline in Mexico. And the prices are
NOT nationalized. Mexico follows the USA gasoline formulas except
that several years ago the USA formulation reduced sulfur
content. Mexico did not. Sulfur is good for your engine but
clogs emission control devices. My Tercel clogged and the little
panel light came on. If my 2008 Ford Ranger clogs I go back to the dealer
on warrantee.
See my Mexico description for travel in Mexico.
This town is where you go to be at peace with the world. You are at the end of the world. The people in and out of the CRA park are really great. If you fear Mexico, come here to overcome that fear. If you fear isolation, you will find friends who also appreciate some distance from the world's problems.
I presume any fishing village has similar situations but here is what you find in El Golfo. The pavement ends 1.5 kilometers north of the park. None of the city roads are paved except the entry road and the main cross road.
You can drive in the sand. Do not stop in soft sand: once stopped, the RV will try to plow sand and get seriously hung up.
There are hundreds of fishing pongas on the
beach. Pongas are sort of like large Boston Whalers with dual humungous
engines to propel them into the Sea of Cortez. The Sea is very
shallow up here at the north end and so has a long tide basin.
People have pickup trucks with a tow rig on the back to pull the pongas
to high ground. Salt water corrodes brakes: the original brakes
are removed. So although pedestrians technically have the
right-of-way; in most instances, the ponga trucks cannot stop -- give
them plenty of space. Since they drive mostly in the sand, this
is not a problem unless you are driving in the sand and have to wait
for one. Do not do this.
Do you like to fish? Patricio will take you out for a half or
full day and guarantee you fish.
You will not hear about it from me.
Believe it or not, the streets have names. There are a growing number of stop signs. There is a police station.
There is a toll booth north of town. Residents do not pay.
Squads of police from San Luis do little to control the havoc but they
are there and they will ticket you if necessary.
If you are on the main road, it is mostly hard sand and you do not
need to worry too much. If you have a rig, do not come to a full
stop as you will tend to plow and that is a losing game.
The rules are different if you drive your car or pickup on the side
roads:
You will quickly discover that real Mexican food is different than
anything you have eaten in the USA. No. They do not serve
dog meat. Chivo is goat. Carnitas is pork. Carne (de res) is beef. Lengua is tongue. Cabeza is head.
Caldos, Verduras, Menudo,: kinds of soup/stew. Many are very
good. Ask what meat is in it. Barria usually is goat meat.
The names are the same but the implementation differs. A taco
here contains a soft shell and some meat. It is up to you to add
the remaining ingredients. There are no chimichangas. There
are no 8-inch burritos that will feed a family of four or one fat
American.
Oh. Limones are green. Limones Amarillos are yellow.
Limones are served with everything from beer to chips. I do not
drink beer but everything else gets limon juice.
Be careful of the sauces. Look for the little red bottle with
the label "Amor" on it. This is just right for most
gringos. You do not want to eat anything with habenero in
it. Trust me. If in doubt, ask. If I go for more than
3 days without a jalapeño, I feel deprived.
The best fish tacos are from a truck next to the Pemex station at KM
28 south of San Luis.
The little stand at the jog at Riito has good roadside food.
The little stand at the 4-corners in El Golfo has good food (South West).
On holidays many cart restaurants move into town. Some are good some
are not so good. Ask for Martha at the little carrita with the
name "Rafe" on it. Tell her Chuck sent you. If she has
tamales, get as many as you can.
These are the Mexican version of fast food. Make sure you add
lots of peppers and limones as salt is measured by the handful in
Mexico.
Here I am prejudiced and it shows. Mexicans do not tip.
Americans tip as if every dime costs them in lost blood.
Tip the waitress, she deserves it and the tips feed her
family. If you drive on the road one block from the beach,
you will see most of these restaurants.
I have not been here so I cannot comment. My friends like
it. It is near the beach north of the others.
I have gone home sick from here twice. The only other time,
disappointed. Others like it and it has been around so my
experience my not be typical.
Nice little cozy restaurant with Mexican-American food.
Upscale (read: expensive) for this part of the world. I do not
eat
here because the owner keeps the tips that you think are going to your
waitress. Simon Lagree with a smile.
Run by my friend of many years, Theresa. She speaks English
and Spanish very well. She lives here and has family in
Yuma. I like her breaded fish. She not only knows
everything about the area but can tell you its history too. I
love the sticker on her cash register: "My other home is a third world
cantina". From Theresa's restaurant you sit away from and above
the beach. This is the best beach view in all of El Golfo and you
can watch the sunset before you leave. I think the cooks get the
tips -- they have come out and said thank you.
This is my second home. I spend hours here. Magui is
everyone's mother. She serves the best chiles relleno
anywhere. The
waitresses keep their own tips. Every meal is served with a
little extra love. When my meal is placed in front of me, I feel
the warmth from my waitress as she is proud and happy to have been able
to serve me dinner. If you like tostadas, make sure to ask for
guacamole or avocado. When you walk in the door, you will see
Magui, the owner. They write songs about the love you find in El Golfo.
Largest menu in town of Mexican dishes from south Mexico. Also fruit drinks, fresh fruit, and ice cream.
There are a growing number of these, more or less permanent.
They have gone through multiple owners and so I have no comment.